What To Expect From Your First Colour Appointment Post Lockdown.


Well. Where to start eh!


We have written this blog to hopefully help to answer any questions you may be storing up on what to expect from your first colour appointment with us coming out of lockdown, and to manage your expectations of how we will get you back to the colour & hair condition, that you previously once had, pre lockdown(s)!


Some of you may read this entire blog, and find it very informative, and some of you may find it mega boring in places where it may not apply, so we have broken this up in to sections, for ease of your perusal.


Please make sure that you read this thoroughly as this contains information that we think is vital to know prior to rebooking in with us once we reopen. - This also applies to any of you newbies who may be reading along too.


These lockdowns have been tough for us hairdressers for many reasons, but the biggest hitter for us in terms of what we are facing once reopening, is colour.


We are facing ridiculously extreme root regrowths, colour corrections, and home dye rescues like we have never experienced before. You may think, well, whats different for us, well simply, as all hair salons are closed, colour clients who haven't dyed their hair during this period have a whole world of factors to think about, which we will speak about further down, but for those who have found themselves dabbling in the game of home dyeing, this leaves us in a tricky situation for quite a few reasons - meaning once those few return back for a salon colour appointment, it isn't as straight forward as a standard colour appointment. We will be guiding you through all of these things, so please don't stress, we will get you there!


From your perspective, the client, once we get to reopen, your main feelings are that of super excitement! The longings for the day that its finally your turn to get your bottom in our hot seat, getting that oh so needed hair pampering & finally banishing those sightly roots, is nearly here! (and we cannot wait to do the honours!), but there are many factors that fly under your non hair human's radar. This is why now, more than ever, we need to have a chat.


The first lockdown, which was last year now?!, meant that we didn't get to see the majority of your barnet's for a minimum of 15weeks, (and thats if we saw you that very last week prior to the March lockdown, and the very first week of July!) which obviously 90% of you went longer than this.


When we reopen next week on the 13th of April, this is exactly the same duration of time, 15weeks of closure, and we will be coming up against the same issues we did as Quirker's last time, if not worse.


(Also, how weird is it that it is exactly the same amount of time as the first closure!?).


At least this time, we are more aware from what we faced last time, and can help you to be better prepared, which, in turn, helps us to be better prepared too.


What did we struggle with the most as Quirker's? We struggled with firstly managing our own expectations as colourist's, as naturally we want everything to be perfect for you, thats why we do what we do, but also, managing your expectations of what is possible in these circumstances in that very first appointment.


I Just Want My Usual, I Loved It And Just Want It Back The Same As It Was.


Shouldn't be a problem, right? Sadly, it can be.

So why could this be?


There are multiple factors that come in to the art of colouring hair to a high standard, and safely. Take a peep below at the main concerns which may involve your next colour appointment with us, post lockdown.


Hi-Light Clients


EXAMPLE:


Usual service: Half Head Hi-Lights & Toner.

Usual duration in between booking: 6weeks.

Expectation: Blonde.

Natural Hair Colour: Brunette.*


*We have used a brunette natural hair colour for ease of reading & to help with you imagining this visually.


Scenario in appointment that takes place in a 6week cycle:


Client:

Loves the colour, needs roots sorting out, plus a toner to refresh everywhere and keep cool blonde tone.


Stylist:

Carefully applies a half heads worth of foils, maintaining roots that are around 3quarters of an inch long (just under 2cm).


Result:

Target colour achieved, with an even amount of lightness throughout the hair. The sections of hair left out (the pieces that do not get foiled) have a root usually around the same length in regrowth as all over, and appear blended amongst the freshly hi-lighted hair.


Maintenance:

Each time client has hi-lights maintenance, which should take place around the 6week mark, different hairs get picked up in to the foils, meaning the client never gets to a point of having an over grown regrowth on any of the sections of hair that get left out of the foil. Toner maintenance & home care will be advised.


Scenario in appointment that takes place in 15wks+ cycle:


Client:

Hates the colour as there is so much natural brunette on show due to the extra growth time. Loved the colour last time and would like the same as usual and is super excited.


Stylist:

Applies half heads worth of foils, banishing roots that are around 2inches (around 5cm).


Result:

Target colour achieved, but is over shadowed by the sections of hair that are left out, (the pieces that do not get foiled). these pieces have a long natural root that does not blend so much with the freshly hi-lighted hair, creating a dark shadow across everything except the mid lengths and ends that have multiple appointments worth of built up blonde. Client feels that they still have roots and feel dark around the top, compared to the mid length and ends, so feels unhappy. As this was mentioned in the consultation prior to colour being applied, client understands the process that needs to be done to build back up to previous results pre lockdown.


Maintenance:

Each time we see the client from this point forward for maintenance, the focus will solely be to build up the level of lightness to where the client used to be, until we reach the target. This is a case of building it up as there is so much of a long regrowth, whilst maintaining the structure of the hair, which takes time. Toner maintenance & home care will be advised.


What the stylist could do to help with this process, is have a consultation with you prior to you booking your colour service in. The stylist can access your current hair, go through a few options, and guide you to a colour service that may suit you better whilst you are building up your lightness. There are a few options which won't suit everyone, or that may not work depending on what your end goal is, which is why we would need to see you, to go through your needs, and bounce ideas with you.


Why can't we just sort it and make it the same lightness and blonde at the top like it was?


As we are working with a hi lighting technique here, we do not foil every single strand of hair. This technique gives you a less blocked affect compared to a full head block colour application.


The best way of us explaining this is to have you think back to when you very first started to have hi lights. Then think to maybe around the 4th time you had your hi lights maintained, much lighter right? Unless you have a lowlight pulled through your hair to mimic that balance of your natural colour, you are bound to progressively get lighter and lighter. Now re-read what we said above in the examples.


Is there a way to blend out the massive root that will be left in-between if you don't want a shadow?


Sure! There are a few options that we can offer in addition to your hi-lights to help blend this out, but this will require a face to face consultation to assess your individual hair needs. We can then go through what options are available to you whilst also being mindful of keeping you on track, as well as getting you feeling wonderful again, plus most importantly, this means that we will then know what to book you in as, as well as being able to give you a quote for the work you require.


We have used a half heads worth of foils service in the scenarios just as it is our most used sectioning, but the same applies across a parting, T-section and also full head of Hilights too, just incase you were wondering.


Scalp Application Of Bleach Clients


Usual service: Global Bleach Application & Toner.

Usual duration in between booking: 6weeks.

Expectation: Mega Ice/silver/grey/ blonde / Pastel colour.

Natural hair colour: Brunette*.


*We have used a brunette natural hair colour for ease of reading & to help with you imagining this visually.


Scenario in appointment that takes place in a 6week cycle:


Client:

Loved the colour, needs root maintenance and toner refresh, maybe needs a cleanse through mid lengths to brighten back up prior to toning due to sun exposure/use of hot tools/over use of toning shampoo/conditioner.


Stylist:

Carefully applies bleach regrowth in fine sections, whilst avoiding overlap, maintaining 3/4inch long roots (just under 2cm).


Result:

An even blend of target colour throughout the hair, whilst condition maintained to a good level*.


Maintenance:

Each time the client has the regrowth maintained for this service, which should be done within the time frame advised by your Quirker, the roots will be successfully lifted to the target colour, with an overall level of consistency in colour, and strength levels assessed and spoken about. Toner maintenance & home care will be advised.


What did we mean by an overall level of consistency in colour?

When working with a global application of bleach, with the nature in how it lifts the hair, and how our hair is made up, means it is inevitable that damage will happen over time. This means that the porosity of our hair also becomes uneven. This is unavoidable and is in no way your Quirker's fault, as long as they are informing you of the warnings that are attached to becoming a scalp bleach client. This is just the nature of the product sadly, no matter how much bond builder we add to the product. Over time, the colour will appear more and more translucent in the worst parts, and more 'glowy' where the tone will no longer be locked in by your hairs structure in those areas. meaning the overall level of consistency will change in percentage of lightness/tone level.


Think of being a scalp bleach client, as being in a cult! Yup, we said it, because that is exactly what it is. Once you come down this road, you won't want to turn around, but we are here to help keep you from steering in to the pot holes or ditches either side of it, and guide you on to the next road once you want to, or need to - kicking and screaming if need be!


Scenario in appointment that takes place in a 15weeks+ cycle:


Client:

Hates the colour as there is so much natural brunette on show due to the extra growth time. Loved the colour last time and would like the same as usual, maybe even a little lighter this time, and is super excited.


Stylist:

Todays service can not be tackled in the same way as normal due to the length of regrowth. This client needed to have a colour consultation prior to todays booking, and the stylist does not have the time that is needed for today. This appointment is necessary to be rearranged for a colour correction, due to the severe regrowth and the problems that will arise if the Quirker was to proceed with a root application of this product 'as normal'.


Result:

  • Unhappy client due to the fact of being turned away.

  • Unhappy stylist due the fact the client had to be turned away plus also now has 'dead' time in the salon.

  • Client will be able to get back on track with their desired hair colour, but on a different day.


Why was this appointment not able to go ahead?

Bleach is a rather complicated little fish. We will try our hardest to keep this short(ish) and in a non hair human language!


When you are a scalp bleach client, you have a small window of being able to get the best out of your colour maintenance. We aren't only talking colour results here, but also the damage concern.


Here are 3 categories of regrowth to help give you an example of what we mean here:

  • Under 1.5cm = Not ripe enough.

  • 1.5cm. = Perfectly ripe!

  • Over 1.5cm = Overly ripe.

If you are classed in either the 'not ripe enough' or 'overly ripe' category, we would be unable to avoid breakage - and we aren't heart breaker's of that nature! Nope.


Not ripe enough?

We will take a goosey gander at your hair, assess your individual hair growth rate over time, and be able to predict your perfect maintenance window for you. If we are new to you being a scalp bleach application client, then this will take us time to be able to predict, as our hair grows differently from one another (and even each month at times) so we may ask you to come see us for a root check up to begin with in-between colour services.


Perfectly ripe? Your root line will look very visible, almost like we have drawn that line with a laser! This is what we need to be working with for optimum colour results and optimum damage control.


Overly ripe? So you definitely have a line alright, and its very visible, but it is not looking like a laser has drawn it, and potentially has almost a blurred line, unfortunately this would be risking breakage, and colour banding. In this instance, we will need to reassess whether this service is for you, or have a chat about what services we need to look at to get you back on track, and bringing you back in to the required maintenance time scale.


Why are we now just picturing bananas? Did you picture a fruit or vegetable whilst reading that?


Important:

Please let us know when booking your appointment that you will require a consultation to know which category you fall in to, so that we can get this booked correctly and avoid potentially turning you away on the day. This is vital to whether you have the correct time allocated for your colour appointment.


Balayage Clients


Usual service: Half Head Balayage Application & Toner.

Usual duration in between booking: 6-8weeks.

Expectation: Mega Ice/silver/grey/blonde/copper/pastel/vivid colour.

Natural hair colour: Brunette*.


*We have used a brunette natural hair colour for ease of reading & to help with you imagining this visually.


Scenario in appointment that takes place in a 6-8week cycle:


Client:

Loved the colour, needs root maintenance around face and underneath, and toner refresh, maybe needs a cleanse through mid lengths to brighten back up prior to toning due to sun exposure/use of hot tools/over use of toning shampoo/conditioner. Top up on crown section where the balayage needs to creep up a little.


Stylist:

Applies pre-lightener regrowth in foils/freehand in fine sections, whilst avoiding overlap, maintaining 3/4-1inch long roots (around 2cm) around the face frame and underneath. Sections out crown/top section to creep up the lightness a little where its grown out.


Result:

An even colour melt of target colour throughout the hair, whilst condition maintained to a good level*.


Maintenance:

Each time the client has the face frame/bottom hairline maintained for this service, which should be done within the time frame advised by your Quirker, the roots will be successfully lifted to the target colour, and strength levels assessed and spoken about. Toner maintenance & home care will be advised.


Scenario in appointment that takes place in 15wks+ cycle:


Client:

Hates the colour now as there is so much natural brunette around the face now due to the extra growth time, and the balayage has lost its freshness and tone completely. Loved the colour last time and would like the same as usual and is super excited.


Stylist:

Applies half heads worth of balayage (techniques vary), banishing face frame and bottom hairline roots that are around 2inches (around 5cm), and going back through the entire balayage technique to build back up the level on lightness, bring the colour melt higher again. Once lifted, will tone to desired target shade and blend in to the rest of the hair.


Result:

Target colour achieved, but is over shadowed by the sections of hair that are left out, (the pieces that do not get coloured). These pieces have a long natural root that does not blend so much with the freshly balayaged hair, creating a darker shadow throughout, except the ends that have multiple appointments worth of built up blonde/lightness. Clients also has warmer zones within the balayage. This is due to the fact that there are pieces of hair that have been previously balayaged, but have not been touched this time, this will naturally leave these areas slightly different in lightness level, this cannot be avoided sadly, and is simply a case of building back up over time. Client feels that they still have dark areas around the middle and ends, compared to what it was in previous appointments, so feels unhappy. As this was mentioned in the consultation prior to colour being applied, client understands the process that needs to be done to build back up to previous results pre lockdown.


Maintenance:

Each time we see the client from this point forward for maintenance, the focus will solely be to build back up the level of lightness to where the client used to be, until we reach the target. This is a case of building it up as there has been so much of a gap in colour appointments, whilst maintaining the structure of the hair, which takes time. Toner maintenance & home care will be advised.


Although you guys have what is classed as a low maintenance hair colour, this still requires regular maintenance sadly. We're happy that you guys are not as heavily affected by the longer duration in between colour applointents due to lockdown, but we still want to manage your expectations. Rather than root shadowing like hi-lighing clients will be left with, you are facing potential warmer zones throughout the mid-lengths and ends whilst we build you back up, and also will experience that sense of darkness potentially through the balayage too, just not as noticeable.


Why can't we just sort it and make it the same lightness and blonde at the top like it was?


As we are working with a balayage technique here, we do not foil or freehand every single strand of hair. This technique gives you a less blocked affect compared to a full head block colour application, and is more of a natural grow out than a set of hi lights.


The best way of us explaining this is to have you think back to when you very first started to have the balayage technique. Then think to maybe around the 4th time you had your balayage maintained, much lighter right?


Unless you have a lowlight pulled through your hair to mimic that balance of your natural colour, you are bound to progressively get lighter and lighter. Now re-read what we said above in the examples.



One Colour All Over Client (Not Bleach application)


Permanent Hair Colour


Usual service: Permanent Colour Root Touch Up & Toner.

Usual duration in between booking: 6weeks.

Expectation: Blonde/Brunette/Red/Copper/Black/

Natural Hair Colour: Brunette and Grey Blend.*


*We have used a brunette natural hair colour for ease of reading & to help with you imagining this visually.


Scenario in appointment that takes place in a 6-8week cycle:


Client:

Loved the colour, needs root maintenance and potential refresh through mid lengths and ends where loss of vibrancy may have occurred due to sun exposure/use of hot tools/over use of toning shampoo/conditioner/ incorrect home care.


Stylist:

Applies root regrowth whilst avoiding overlap, maintaining 3/4-1inch long roots (around 2cm). Refreshes mid-length and ends at the basin for 5mins before rinsing colour off.


Result:

An even colour result of target colour throughout the hair, whilst zapping those pesky greys and adding shine.


Maintenance:

Each time the client has the roots maintained for this service, which should be done within the time frame advised by your Quirker, the roots will be successfully coloured to the target colour, without major issue. Toner maintenance (if needed) & home care will be advised.


Scenario in appointment that takes place in 15wks+ cycle:


Client:

Hates the colour as there is so much natural brunette and wild greys on show due to the extra growth time. Loved the colour last time and would like the same as usual and is super excited.


Stylist:

Needs to apply the colour from roots down to tips, carefully considering if two separate mixtures need to be made up to match previous colour notes due to the old colour and natural colour being different to the clients desired target colour. Stylist needs to banish roots that are around 2inches (around 5cm), plus colour the mid lengths and ends due to the colour being so worn away from a long duration in between previous appointment, this service is no longer a root only appointment and needs a full head application to get back on track.


Result:

Target colour achieved, leaving the client looking back to their former selves.


Note:

If client feels that they still want to have a root only appointment after speaking to their Quirker for any reason, and you have had a full consultation to find out what results to expect, this is not a problem, but please note that we will still be mixing a considerable amount more of colour due to the extra root length, compared to a normal maintenance appointment, so we will need to charge accordingly for this.


Maintenance:

Each time we see the client from this point forward for maintenance, we should be back on track and normal maintenance can be rebooked, unless the client fancies a change. Toner (if needed) maintenance & home care will be advised.


What the stylist could do to help with this process if you are unsure, is have a consultation with you prior to you booking your colour service in. The stylist can access your current hair, go through a few options, and guide you which colour service you will require. There are a few options which won't suit everyone, or that may not work depending on what your end goal is, which is why we would need to see you, to go through your needs, and bounce ideas with you.


Semi-Permanent Hair Colour


For all semi-permanent colour clients, due to the nature in where this product sits within the hair structure, you guys usually need roots through to ends for your hair colour maintenance.


You will notice that sometimes your semi will be applied from roots to ends straight through, and sometimes you may only require it being blended through to the ends for 5minutes at the basin as a refresh, depending on how your hair has behaved between appointments. These are two completely different methods/services.


As we recommend you to come back to us usually book in for maintenance around the 4-6week mark, we are way past this type of appointment now. This means we are needing to take your colour through to the ends, rather than just refreshing with a blending service, in order to create an even colour result for you.


Once we have done this, you will be back on track for your usual root maintenance and refresher on the ends if needed, just like normal.


Vivid Colour Client


Please note that currently we cannot take on any big colour appointments.


Initially, due to facing such a high demand, we will solely be focusing on getting everyone just looking somewhat human again. Unfortunately, due to the nature of vivid colour work, this type of appointment takes up quite a chunk of time, we cannot manage this type of appointment straight away.


We will try out best to help you out in the mean time, and will not leave you out in the cold, but this will require a consultation with your Quirker due to this type of service being so tailored to the individual.


We will be constantly be reassessing this, and once we feel we have gotten a handle on demand, we will be able to invite you in for a complete overhaul or back to your usual multi coloured selves once again.


So what can we do to help you?

As this is so individual, it is harder to give a general idea that covers you all, but we can definitely help and bounce ideas with you if we get you in for a consultation with your Quirker. Here are a few ideas to help give you a very rough idea of what is possible:


Root Smudge/Drag - This would be done using a semi permanent colour which is close in depth to your natural root colour, (or not too far off) which would give you an exaggerated root that looks intentional rather than a natural root line.


Low-Lights - This would be done with a semi permanent colour which is also close in depth to your natural root colour, (or not too far off) which would soften the effect of your intense root regrowth line.


Tone Top Up - If you are one vivid colour and not a mix, we could apply this to your already vivid hair colour to top you up whilst you wait it out for us getting you in for a bigger job.


Unfortunately we wouldn't be able to opt for a different colour from your previous vivid unless it will easily sit on top of the current colour. - example - a colour that will sit over your current vivid without the need for cleansing/ lifting/need for a double process.


What do we mean by sitting easily over the current colour?

Purple will sit over Pink.

Red will sit over Orange.

Dark blue will sit over light purple/light green ( will still have a slight purple/green tinge).


Important

Please let us know when booking your appointment that you will require a consultation to know which colour service you will require, so that we can get this booked correctly and avoid potentially turning you away on the day. This is vital to whether you have the correct time allocated for your colour appointment.


Everyone!


Incase you missed it, rather frustratingly, we are having to re-skin test our entire client database prior to having any colour service with us. This is due to an insurance policy change with covid 19 and the covid 19 vaccination, and how it increases your risk of having an allergic reaction to colour. We know this is very inconvenient, and we can only apologise for this. We promise to make this easy and make it as quick a turn around as possible for you.

Please understand the processes that need to be done for what results you require will absolutely only be suggested with you and your hair needs in mind.


We love making sure that you receive the best service possible, and of course, are happy with your hair outcomes! If you are unhappy or unsure about anything we have said above, please contact us and lets have a talk about it. We would hate to not hear what you have to say.


If any of the above information has confused you, or if you think of anything that we have not covered above, please feel free to drop us a line, and we will do our best to assist you.


Looking forward to trying to recognise you with all of your crazy roots!


Rae & Tom x



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